Eolian islands

From Scilla we set sails towards Milazzo, we figured that since it was already afternoon we would not make it to Vulcano by day. As soon we came around the corner we were met by strong SE wind and we thought it was coming through Messina strait and once we're at the other side it will be calmer. We were sailing fast only on our solent sail, but since there were waves as well, our boat got salty in minutes, up to the lazy bag. Captain was sad, he was so happy that the night storm washed the boat so thoroughly. I actually thought the boat was looking a bit yellowish, like the storm brought some Sahara sand with it as well.

Once we reached the N side of Sicily the waves got smaller, but the wind got even stronger, it was between 25 and 30 knots. We wanted to stop for swimming and lunch, and anchored in very pretty turquoise water near the beach, but neither of us was keen on going in the water in 30 knots of wind. So it was just lunch.

In the afternoon the wind slowly got weaker and we even got some rain, although not enough to wash the boat. In the evening we reached Milazzo and anchored on the N side of the port among several other ships. It was already getting late so we didn't go ashore. Night was a bit rolly, but not too much. In the morning we set sails to still use some of the W wind that was going to die in the afternoon. This is Milazzo, the nicer part of it, to the S and E there's oil refinery and lots of industry.

Once outside the bay we got full force of wind again, almost on the nose, with two meter waves. Boy, we maybe should have waited till afternoon and motored to Vulcano. The beating was absolutely not pleasant, big waves were stopping us efficiently, and boat got salty again in minutes, one wave even managed to find it's way under and above the sprayhood and splashed quite some water into the cockpit and down the stairs into the boat. We were not happy.

After four hours of hard sailing we anchored on the E side of the bay on Vulcano. It was all familiar, many boats anchored too close to each other, smell of rotten eggs and frequent wash from ferries and big ships going in and out of the port.

Towards the evening we rowed to the beach and walked into town. I was glad to see that the supermarket was still so well stocked as many years ago and we still found the butcher with delicious salsiccie and involtini (sausages and veal rolls filled with cheese). After shopping and a good walk we sat down for a great dinner, this time we ate a Sicilian speciality called panelle, a fried squares made of chickpea four, and some fish and semifredo afterwards. It was really delicious and for a very reasonable price.

Night was not so great, we knew it was going to be rolly, but it was way worse. When wind died completely in the night, the foul-eggs smelling fumes from the volcano crept down the hill into anchorage and it was quite bad. As if moving of the boat wasn't enough. At four also a big ship carying water came into port and threw anchor 100m from our boat before going backwards and tying to the pier. Captain described it as hell as from Dante's work, except it wasn't as hot.

In the morning we were both unanimous that we're moving. For start we sailed North and rouded the island and tried the bay on the W side. The views were very pretty.

While there were still some waves coming into the bay from the W, remains of the strong wind of the day before, there was also a breeze from the W that kept the nose of our boat into the waves and efficiently brought fresh air to us.

We had a great view of smouldering volcano.

After some lazying around we decided to stay and try the night on this side. And in the afternoon we made and installed the new shelf for spice jars under the window in our kitchen. One more project done.

The night was not too bad, as long as there was some wind that kept us into the waves it was ok, toward the morning it got a bit rolly, but it was much better than the night before.

After the breakfast and some swimming we sailed off. The last view of the bay...

... and then we sailed by the rock formations between the islands of Vulcano and Lipari...

... along the W side of Lipari...

... checked the Saline island...

... and decided to return to Lipari and spend the night there. On our way we've often seen these speedy beasts.

We anchored on the NE side of Lipari, in one of the best and biggest anchorages in whole Eolian islands, just under Capo del castagne.

We had a great view of Panarea and smoking Stromboli.

To the south there was a village, but we were too lazy to go there, and around the cape there is a main town of Lipari.

In the evening we watched Stromboli spitting red stones and lava, and according to the cheering coming from other anchored boats, so did the others.

The night was really peaceful, we slept long and good after a long time.We spent most of the day in the anchorage, captain trying to improve our anchoring system, and only left for Panarea in afternoon. The wind was very weak and we tried to sail, but it was very slow. So after some time we turned on the engine and arrived when the sun was already setting. The anchorage that we anchored last time in was empty and when we approached it the guy in motor boat came to tell us they are placing buoys in it and it's no longer allowed to anchor there. In the bay to the S there was already plenty of anchored boats, so we proceed towards the town and found a nice space in between two fields of mooring buoys, as did couple of other boats.

This is one of the Liscas, the small islands where we also anchored last time we were here, that are now part of the natural reserve and anchoring is forbidden. Not that it deterred other boats.

After a calm night (boy, I could get used to this), we lifted the anchor and sailed closer to town to see if we can anchor somewhere where we could row to the town. But there were plenty of mooring buoys and seeing the town being mostly a tourist development...

...we decided to sail on to Stromboli. We arrived there already early in the afternoon, and were sailing by the NW side, where the hot rocks are falling into the sea. There is a village on the SW side of the island, I'm not sure I would want to live there. If for nothing else, then for the fumes and the smell.

Stromboli was quite active, we even saw red stones during the daytime, but unfortunately I wasn't quick enough to photograph it.

The smoke going down the slope was all we could see of hot rocks on their way to the sea, but when they fall into the water, it was boiling for quite a while.

We anchored in front of the town beach and spent a lazy afternoon, swimming, reading and just a little bit of work. In the evening we rowed to the beach and strolled through the town.

We took the long way around the beach and came across this peculiar view. Unfortunately we don't know the story about it.

After some shopping (Stromboli was way more expensive than Vulcano), we found a nice restaurant with the great view...

... and even better pizzas! We also had some canollis, and they were ok, but nothing special.
On our way back we made some more photos...

... and I have the feeling we had a photo of exactly the same bougenville bush and the alley from 8 years ago, only then taken from the opposite side.

Sun was just setting as I rowed towards Heron.

After some swimming we went to sleep. Night wasn't as good as the last two, but this time not because of the waves or the smell, but because I ate too much in the evening.

In the morning we sailed off early, we wanted to reach Tropea in good time. We took some more photos of our beach and Stromboli...

... we even sailed around Stromboliccio (I like how it looks like some evil king's castle, I especially like the eagle on the right)...

...with stairs from the other side which triggered the wish in Captain to climb up...

... and with an eruption and a loud bang Stromboli said bye.

Messina for the third time

The night in front of Roccela Ionica marina was not the best, especially towards morning wind turned to E and grew stronger and of course it brought with it bigger waves. The boat was rolling more and more. Captain got up first and decided to sail off without waking me up. Well, the sound of anchor chain and then winches surely didn't let me sleep any longer. After a coffee we were considering what our day target should be and where we should sleep, and we decided to try to get through Messina strait and sleep in Scilla. I wanted to see Scilla, because the first time we were here some 8 years ago, we just took a look at it from the boat and sailed on. This time I wanted to see it up close. 

Wind got stronger and we had a good speed and good chances of making our plan happen. We were sailing by on wild Calabrian hills.

After many hours, already in the late afternoon, we turned into Messina strait.

Wind was with us and we were able to sail most of the time, even wing on wing. To the right there is Calabria...

... and we could only see outlines of Sicily through clouds on the left.

This was our third time sailing through Messina strait and although we know it is nothing scary, one gets a bit nervous. Not so much because of big vortices or strong counter current, which are both there, the scariest are the ferries that drive between Calabria and Sicily, and as someone said "take no prisoners". It helps if there are two people watching the traffic and even under sails just get out of the way of so much faster and bigger beasts.

It was already getting dark when we reached Scilla. I was looking forward to go into the town in the morning.

We anchored on N side of the town, in hope to get out of the SE wind and waves. But the wind was quite strong and the gusts were coming down the hills directly into anchorage. We checked anchor several times, it was holding well, and after closing all the hatches - it started to rain - went to bed after the long day. In radar picture I saw that majority of rain is still coming to us in the night and was hoping that the wind will get weaker by then.

After couple of hours of sleep we both got up - wind was howling, rain was pounding on the boat and there were lightnings all around. One gets nervous even if one has confidence that anchor will hold. After a little while we noticed that some of the hatches were not water tight, so we placed bowls and towels under them. Between the rain also the frozen rain started to fall, and it made the sound of the thunderstorm even scarier. We were constantly checking the anchor, the hatches and so it went on for some two hours. We both tried to go back to sleep after the worse was over, I even succeed in getting some more sleep, but Captain didn't.

In the morning there was no signs of big excitement in the night, Scilla looked pretty and calm.

These are or used to be fishermen's cottages, some are very narrow and small, but most have some kind of place to pull the boat out of the sea.

We put the dinghy into the water and rowed into the harbour. There is a castle watching over the harbour.

Our anchorage

Town is very pretty, with narrow streets, old stone houses, caper bushes growing everywhere.

People do make an effort to make it look pretty.

I liked these pots that were tied together with the rope because the shelf on which they were was slanted.

Between a lots of renovated and nice building there were also some old and crumbly ones.

This is the view towards S, where the town beach is. A good anchorage for the wind from N or E.

The castle

In the narrow streets the cars are small.

There is a way how to make leveled surface to place couple of tables and chairs in steep streets.

And some more pretty views...

A place for the boat

Blue boats in the harbour

In the middle of the day we sailed off, after a nice ice cream of course. One more look at the pretty houses...

... and we lift the anchor. We couldn't believe it - it's tip is bent. So there must have been a lot of wind in the night. Oh, and as a reminder that we truly were in Calabria - when Captain cleaned the mud from the anchor, he found a pistol bullet in it.