From Vieste to Brindisi

Evening in Vieste was lovely, wind slowed down, sun came out again, we had a great supper and even went for a swim. And then went to bed early, since the last night was so short. Well, we didn't know that this one was going to be short again. In the night wind died completely, but some of the waves remained, and at four in the morning Heron was rolling so bad, we couldn't sleep any more. Captain decided to lift the anchor and sail off, but luckily spotted a nice protected bay some 7 miles South and anchored again. And we slept some more. We woke to this beautiful sight.

Ok, soon the beach was full of tourists, but they were far enough. More annoying were the big open boats, carrying couple of dozens of tourists, that came to see this little island and a small cave behind it.

These big boats were annoying, coming quite close to our boat and making waves. In the afternoon Captain and myself swam to the cave to see what the big attraction was - it was mere hole in the cliff, the most interesting thing were the swifts that were nesting on the ceiling.

The holding was quite poor in this bay, obviously there was just a thin layer of sand over the rock bottom and our boat started to drift slightly with the stronger wind in the afternoon. Captain got restless and although I hoped to stay for the night, we sailed on towards South.

It was almost dark when we reached town of Trani and decided to try to anchor for the night. Best holding was in a bay in front of the cathedral. Luckily the bells weren't to loud.

Night was a bit rolly, but ok. In the morning we set sail again. Wind was very light and sailing very smooth. Captain set up his home office...

...in the calm sea.

We were flying all out sails again, making a good speed.

Our destination for the day was Mola di Bari, a small town 10 miles South of Bari. We prefer the small towns, usually they have more soul than big ones. One of the reasons we wanted to stop there was that it is possible to anchor behind the breaker in front of the port. We got there in the evening and found a lot of local boats anchored there, people were swimming and enjoying Saturday evening. There was still plenty of space for us and we were happy to have found such a nice place. Already the first evening we dinghied to the town, which was not particularly pretty but quite pleasant. Lots of people were on the streets, as we learned later, not only because during the day it was way too for anything else but swimming, but also because it was the weekend of town's biggest festivity - it has something to do with Virgin Mary and fishermen. Already at that evening we heard some loud bangs, like from some heavy guns.

On our first night on land in a week we of course ate great pizza, panzarotti (fried pizza) and gelatto. All recommended by locals. And we decided to stay another day and night, because we liked the place so much.

Next morning at around 6 we heard a loud bang. And then another one. Captain ran out on the deck only to discover that the "big guns" were fired again at the time for the first mass in the church, but from the very breaker at which we were anchored. Luckily was the wind blowing away from us, so most of the pieces were blown to the other side. I was so very much hoping we would have a nice peaceful night.

The festivities lasted all morning, highlight being when the fishing boats sailed out of the bay, one carrying the statue of Mary, and tens and tens smaller boats following.

What was worrying me was the fact that there were still men on the breaker walking up and down, and arranging something that looked like an ammunition collection for a bigger battle on it. But after the fishing boats returned, many of the smaller boats anchored around us and children jumped into the water, adults sat and ate and drunk, so I think that nothing more is going to happen. Wrong. In the afternoon the cannonade started again, only this time wind blew all the little charred pieces onto our boat and those around us. Other than us nobody seemed to mind.

In the evening we had pizza and panzarotti and gelatto again, and returned to the boat at about 10. I was a bit unhappy to see all those men still parading up and down the breaker. And after we had a swim a boat came to us with a port official, telling us that at midnight the big fireworks will start from the breaker and that we can't stay in anchorage. First he wanted us to tie Heron to one of the fishing boats in the port, then figured out our draught was to deep, then he tried to find us another place to anchor deeper in the port, but the shallow water was again an issue, and then the police ordered him to tell us to leave the port and come back no sooner than 15 minutes after midnight. We were a bit unhappy, but left and anchored a good distance to the North. And it was some firework! The biggest I've seen live for sure. And even from where we were we could see all the pieces, some still burning, falling into the water just where Heron was an hour ago. It was a good thing they moved us or we might not have a boat any more.

After it was over we sailed back and anchored the boat and went to sleep, in hope of a good and long night. But we were up again at four, Wind turned again and big waves were rolling into the anchorage. We got up and saw that deeper in the port we might find a calm spot. So we moved the boat, trying not to be in the way of all the fishing fleet, and went back to sleep.

We didn't need to get up early, because that day we didn't have far to sail, only 11 miles to Monopoli. Yes, it is truly a town, and a very beautiful too. We managed to tie to the town pier (for free) early in the afternoon.

It was unbearably hot, but we went for a short walk around the town. It has a lot of pretty buildings, narrow streets, fortresses, churches, all showing that it had to be a big and important town back in the past.

The photos don't do it justice, in reality it is much prettier. This is the old harbour.

Through the window of this building next to the cathedral we saw mummies of cardinals displayed in glass boxes. Maybe that's why there are skeletons on the door.

This is how Monopoli looks from the sea.

We left Monopoli rather early, we both got awake when there was a guy rowing the skiff in the port at around 6 and his trainer was running up and down the pier, where our boat was, and shouting instructions to him. So instead going back to sleep we sailed off. Our next stop was actually Brindisi. The weather forecast promised a lot of wind from all directions, and we thought it is better to sit this out in a protected place. But we were near Brindisi already shortly after noon, so we figured - why not sail on to Otranto. It was already getting dark when we sailed into the port and the town looked charming. But the best part was the anchorage in front of the town wall. Three boats were already anchored there, but there was still plenty of space for us. We went for a swim and then sat outside on perfectly calm water with a drink and were pretty happy with the day. Before we got to bed I noticed small waves entering the anchorage, but was hoping it will stay at that.

So, at 4 in the morning we were up, in the night a strong North wind made big waves that were rolling directly into the anchorage. We tried to sleep, but whenever a couple of bigger waves came, they woke us up. It went like this until 7, then we were up, discussing our options. I was annoyed and wanted to leave, but there are very few protected places in a day's reach and we didn't want to go back to Brindisi. A bit later we saw another anchored boat leave the anchorage and sailed into the marina. And we decided in an instant that we would follow and also try to get the space there ourselves. And luckily there was more space, so we quickly prepare the fenders and lines, picked a mooring and tied the boat to the pier.

Of course we went for a walk into the the old town, unfortunately the day was grey and so the photos are grey as well.

With this exception.

So here we are, in marina in Otranto, hoping for a long and calm night. A storm with lots of wind, lightnings and some rain already passed, hope the weather will calm a little bit. And tomorrow morning we'll study all the weather forecasts again and try to make a smart choice where to sail next.